It is easier and faster than ever expected.
 It was first tried with a 1701-A with a warped primary hull.
It now has a perfectly flat hull, and perfect nacelle alignment.
It can not be believed how well the plastic took to correction.

 

 

OK, so here's what to do:
Set the oven to 175 degrees and placed an empty can (with the label removed)
on the racks to act as a stage to set the micro on.
The top (where the micro sat) was about 4 inches from the top of the oven.
Caution - make sure you don't accidentally switch on the broiler
 - that would be bad.  
Let it sit there for about 2.5 to 3 minutes 
and then pull her out with your hands (175 isn't uncomfortable to touch).
 Careful, because the ship is VERY droopy and soft.

 

 

The next step was so easy ... 
Have cold water running into a big plastic cup in the sink.
 Simply reform the affected part with your fingers and

hold it in place under the cold water.
After it set - 10 seconds or so -
just drop it into the plastic cup full of cold water for a minute.

Honestly, that was it.  
For the droopy primary hull, use an old fashioned aluminum 

measuring spoon of the right circumference as a guide and hold it

and the heated ship together under the cold water.

 

 

So far, no "rebound"...

In other words, the plastic seems to retain no memory of it's former orientation.

The plastic seems no more brittle than before.  

The micro was actually re-heated and re-formed a couple more times 
to adjust other areas.

The other good news is the paint is probably a pigment/polymer mix 

for durability and it was unaffected.

 

 

From what was observed, the thinner the piece to be adjusted, the better, 
as it is more readily heated through and thoroughly takes to it's new set.

Thicker parts probably would work just as well, but heating times would have

to be increased until the core of the affected area could get sufficiently hot.

What is not known is, if by the time you reach that temp in the core,

if the outside will begin to truly melt.

But nacelles are ideal!  ... and the necks of Klingon ships, and so forth.  

Testimonial:

Hi Star Trek Micros:

I had several ships that were bent in various places.  I read the oven technique for fixing micros the first time I stumbled onto your site (months ago) and never had the nerve to try it.  What if the paint came off, or what if the ship actually BURNT?  Well, I tried the oven technique for fixing bent micro's tonight.  I tried it on a Reliant first, which had a bent primary hull.  It was simplicity itself!  It worked so well I went on to try it on 2 Enterprise-Ds,  one Enterprise-C, and an Excelsior.  The Enterprise C had a bent primary hull, the Excelsior bend warp nacelle and the 2 Enterprise Ds had gaps between the neck and the secondary hulls.  It worked in each case.  I did not use a can for a stage, I used the lid to a pickle jar.  The only thing I would caution is when attempting to fix a thicker section (primary hull) make sure you keep the thin pieces where they need to be.  While fixing the hull on the Enterprise-C, the warp nacelles drooped and I didn't realize it.  Thus I had to treat enterprise-c a second time to fix the drooping warp nacelles.  But all in all the method worked very well.  For thin pieces (warp nacelles) I only left the ships in for 2 minutes.

Thanks for posting that fix.

Mike Thomas

I take no responsibility for damage to your micro machines using this information above.

This is offered simply for your convenience to solve a common problem of micros - due to age and manufacturers defects.